easy boost for tomatoes, capsicums.....

1 tsp Epsom salt in 4 Cups warm water…spray on plant and then again 10 days later. Produces more fruit due to boost of magnesium… especially for tomatoes, peppers and roses.
I haven't tried it, but makes sense. 

White flies on beans

The Stuttgart giant beans are growing wonderfully up the trellis on the fence. But the white flies have come out in force, sucking on the underleaf, resulting in damage to the leaf such as yellow mottling,  and some will wilt and drop off. They lay eggs on the underside of leaves which hatch in 8 days. The whitefly population suck the sap, and also excrete 'honeydew' which can cause problems with black sooty mould. They can also carry other diseases from plant to plant. Eventually they form a black pupa that looks like a small speck under the leaves. The white fly rapidly multiply - most species can complete a full life cycle in 20-30 days, and even faster in summer. Each adult female may lay 200 eggs, which only increases in warm weather.


So, it's not a pest that can co-exist happily in garden taking only its fair share. It's a pest that needs to be eliminated early in the season.

There are some organic solutions:

The parasitic wasp Encarsia formosa is a biological control. Probably not so effective outside but can be obtained commercially in SA through Biological Services, PO Box 501, Loxton, SA 5333 Ph 08 8584 6977. It kills whitefly nymphs in one of two ways: they either lay an egg inside the nymph, providing food for their young, or they kill the nymph right away and feed on it. Once the whitefly nymphs are parasitised they turn black and no longer feed.

Other predators often present in the garden are spiders, ladybird larvae, lacewings, hoverflies and damsel bugs. Some of these are also available from commercial distributors.

There's also the good old sticky yellow strips. They can simply be hung near the beans (or other plants vulnerable to white flies), or I've found it effective to go out in the morning when the white flies are less active and manually place the sticky yellow strip on the underside of each leaf so the white flies get stuck on the yellow strip. As the white flies travel in 'packs', it's easy to get a whole lot in one morning swoop. Kind of satisfying in its own way! Whiteflies are strongly attracted to the colour yellow, so don't wear yellow clothing around whiteflies or you may carry them from plant to plant.

I've also read that vacuuming in the early morning when whiteflies are cold and slow-moving with a small hand-held battery operated vacuum is useful for the adults before a great deal of egg-laying is done. After vacuuming enclose the section of the machine containing the bag with plastic and put in the freezer for 24 hours. I might investigate a dust buster or similar to have on hand in the garden!

Good old companion plants can also be effective. Nasturtium in addition to lovely flowers and leaves that can be used in salads in summer can also help to repel the pest.

For maintaining the plants, handpick older leaves to remove young whitefly stages and dispose in the rubbish bin or green waste.

Fertilizers can also be an issue. Fertilizers rich in nitrogen including manures, will cause lovely green growth which will attract more whiteflies. Check the phosphorus and magnesium levels in your soil, as deficiencies in these are believed to contribute to whitefly infestations.

You can also try a high pressure hosing under the leaves in the early morning, 3 days in a row, but in my experience they simply fly away and happily land elsewhere until its safe to return.

Some suggest that whitefly is a modern pest, created by the over-use of pesticides that have killed off its natural enemies. One study has even demonstrated an increased whitefly reproductive capacity when sprayed with certain insecticides! So avoid synthetic insecticides.

Here's some ideas for more organic approaches:

• Insecticidal soap sprays such as Natrasoap are a good choice of control for the home gardener; spray every 2-3 days for 2 weeks.
• Spray Eco-Oil or try making your own oil spray by mixing 1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid detergent with 1 cup of cooking oil; add 1 to 2.5 teaspoons of this solution to 1 cup of water, spray onto plants every 10 days.
• Botanical insecticides such as pyrethrum plus garlic are useful. Research undertaken in NZ on neem’s effectiveness for whitefly found that it had a major impact by preventing the 'nymph' stage from developing into an adult; the nymphs tend to disappear from the treated plants.

(Source: http://www.greenharvest.com.au/PestControlOrganic/Information/WhiteflyControl.html)

herbs & plants on the fence

pots on the fence with herbs & bok choy

In summer the heat in Adelaide can be extreme. Things like Bok Choy and coriander go straight to seed. This summer I've had pots growing on the side fence on the south of the house, so they get the morning sun but protected from the sun in the afternoon. It's enough to keep the plants happy and thriving. I keep them in self watering pots so they don't dry out in the heat. And strangely, the white cabbage moth which destroys Bok Choy in the garden, hasn't discovered the plants perched on the fence and they're growing wonderfully well.

Zucchini Trombonica

Zucchini trombonica

This has to be one of my favourite summer plants. The texture is like a pumpkin (trombone) but the fruit grows like a zucchini in length. Actually, the longer it's on the vine, the longer the fruit grows. Long and skinny. It's a fabulous plant and delicious steamed or in stir fries. I bought the seeds from Diggers. Not sure how the seeds set as there's no internal cavity like pumpkins for seed production, so have been somewhat thwarted in my seed saving for this plant! Apparently the process is to allow a single fruit to grow full size & become hard. This will take about two months after the flowering stage when the plant will be focussed on seed production. Store the fruit after picking to further mature the seeds. Then scoop out seeds, wash, dry for 2 weeks. My plant was still growing and producing fruit in June last year and none of them had any seeds inside. I'll try again this year!

yellow sticky traps

yellow sticky trap - time to replace this one!

White flies - a curse in the garden. I've had great success with the yellow sticky traps hanging in the garden. The white flies were decimating my beans and now they're strong and vigorous. I had hoped it might do the same around the spider mite etc attacking the tomato plants. Trapped lots of flies and an occasional 'good bug' like a ladybird but didn't deter the spider mite wreaking havoc on the tomatoes. I love the simplicity of the yellow sticky traps in an organic garden. I have pre-prepared ones I bought from Bunnings but sent away to Green Harvest to buy the glue to make my own as well as yellow sticky tape etc. (Heynes in Adelaide stock the products too I found out later). Going to get serious today on the ants 'attending' thrip etc (they love the 'honeydew' produced so they protect the colonies of bugs and deter natural predators for thrip). Come on ants, fair's fair!

Tomato plants - brown leaves

Desperate measures on the cherry tomatoes!

I've cut down the cherry tomatoes today to the base. There are new shoots hopefully trying to grow from the base. Red spider mite or something else has played havoc with the tomato plants. I've also used some of the 'old' cherry tomatoes to put back into the soil, knowing that tomatoes are tenacious at growing given half a chance. Still plenty of summer left to grow more plants.

Cucumber - yellow spots on leaves

Cucumber leaves - yellow blotches

January 2012 - Lebanese cucumbers growing really well but the leaves have yellow spots that take over. Apparently this is caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae and is common on cucumbers.
The bacteria lives on plant debris so it's important to keep the area clear of old leaves etc. The bacteria stays in the soil, so rotating the cucumbers to another bed next summer may be an option.
Sadly, there isn't any way to get rid of it once it has made itself at home. As with marrows and cucumbers, it's important to keep the leaves dry to halt the onset of any diseases so watering early in the morning is important. Likewise, only pick the fruit when plants are dry to slow down the spread of the disease.
Interestingly, the harvest is the best I've had in recent years from cucumber plants, so I'm not despairing! 

Black sapote

Gardening is in part an exercise in patience, and from carefully tending plants that seem to take forever to yield the first fruit. We have had our black sapote tree since being introduced to it by some German Couchsurfers. That was three years ago and it's fruiting for the first time this year. We hope the fruit sets and we can enjoy the long awaited taste of 'chocolate pudding' fruit. The tree is in a pot, under the shelter of our verandah. It enjoys the morning sun but doesn't have to cope with extremes in the weather (when it drops its leaves in response). I had decided some time ago that it was a lovely looking plant even if it didn't fruit (my way of justifying the slow start to set fruit). But as long as it survives the air temperature of this current heat wave (45C outdoors!) we are hopeful the fruit will continue to develop this summer.

Black sapote fruiting for the first time, summer 2011/12

Green stink bugs on tomato plants

While picking the tomatoes this morning, I noticed a green bug. In fact, twice I picked up green bugs that had fallen to the ground and replaced them on the tomato plant. When I did my research, I realized that these green bugs are actually green stink bugs. I went back to the tomato plants to find them again to take a photo but just as I'd lined one up it flew off. So green stinky bugs that fly. The actual damage they inflict seems minimal for the home gardener, and is mainly it seems an irritation value in that they pierce the skin and leave a yellow 'halo' blemish on the skin. Harmless but perhaps not to be encouraged. They are stinky if held too long so will seek an organic solution to the problem and look for eggs, though I think given that they fly I might not actually find the eggs on the tomatoes themselves. Eggs are drum shaped with circular lids and females lay them on clusters on leaves. With any luck, the parasitic wasps will have found them, and laid their own eggs into them in which case the eggs will be dark. More hunting in the garden!

Rungia Klossii - mushroom plant (herb)

This is a perennial, useful to have in the garden. It can grow to 60cm, but will be straggly if left to grow without pruning (or regular use). It has dark green, glossy succulent leaves. It may flower in spring.
I'm moving mine today from where it has been under a fruit salad tree into another garden plot where it might not have so much competition for moisture. Plenty of horse manure (thanks to local racecourse) as it likes compost and rich soil. It will still have quite a bit of shade as it doesn't like to take too much direct sun and heat in summer. I'm cutting it back and will propagate the cuttings. It can also be propogated by root division. I'm told it can be slow to strike but that once its established it can grow quite quickly. Just requires moisture and regular harvesting, which encourages leaf growth. Over winter, the plant may become dormant and straggly, so just needs a good tidy up in spring.
The leaves can be added to soups, stews, stirfries, pasta sauces and salads for a mushroom flavour. It also goes well in sandwiches. It is high in chlorophyll, a good source of protein, calcium, iron, beta-carotene, Vitamins A and C and other nutrients. The mushroom flavour increases with cooking, but leaves will lose their bright colour.

back into gardening mode

We've been away for a month and now back into gardening mode. Picked up horse poo from the streets around Morphettvilel Racecourse. Planted kale, beetroot, mizuna, mustard greens, cos lettuce, red cabbage and marigolds to keep some bugs at bay and Geoff planted flowers. I also potted lots of the berries from the curry leaf tree, hoping some of them 'take' so I can give them away.
Went to Bunnings to top up some plants. Have to laugh at the mint and rosemary plants etc sold at exorbitant prices that only takes a cutting and patience and time to strike your own plants.
Out the front in the late afternoon planting kale and a lady (Kirsty) stopped and introduced herself. She asked, when are you putting out seeds/seedlings again? I was so chuffed to talk to someone who has used my seeds and seedlings I put out regularly. She spoke enthusiastically about lots of things she had planted from offerings I'd left out the front. Turns out she comes from a farming background and used to be a florist, so glad to do some gardening in the city. 
Certainly got me motivated to get organized to leave some seeds and seedlings out the front. I figure it's easy for everyone to get the growing bug and grow a few plants of their own.

Storing basil for winter - method 1

chopped basil

adding water

I have heaps of basil of various kinds and with the weather turning cooler figured I needed to save some for winter. The first method I'm using is pretty simple - simply chop and place about 1 tsp basil in an ice cube and then top with water. When frozen you can transfer to plastic bag to free up the ice cubes for regular use or more basil.  Come winter, just take out an ice cube and add it to whatever dish you are making. The water will evaporate, leaving just the fresh taste of basil to spice up your recipe. This works really well in spaghetti sauce and vegetarian stews in winter.

November in the garden - watching and waiting

Passionfruit flower - a work of art

While cutting 'dead heads' off the Flanders poppies out the front I noticed the mass of passionfruit flowers on the trellis. Gardening really is a 'wait and see' activity - in their own good time things will do what they need to do. A couple of years waiting and now there's the promise of passionfruit on their way. And the 'fruit salad' tree is laden with fruit - after only a couple of fruit for the last couple of years, it seems to have settled into its routine and now there are peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines all developing for summer picking. Oh, and the wait for the mandarin, lime and orange may also be realised this summer. We've had flowering before but now there are lots of fruit on the trees. Whoo hoo!

Celtuce

I did some planting on the weekend - pulled out the snow peas and planted lebanese cucumbers. Also planted some celtuce, an asian vegetable that has 'lettuce leaves' on top of a thick stem (which can be eaten a bit like asparagus). Looking forward to seeing how it goes. This is how it should look......
The broad beans are cropping really well - time to collect all those broad bean recipes now....! 

Perpetual basil - ocimum basilicum

I had to laugh with the 'scientific name' of the perpetual basis - reminds me of octomum in America. My perpetual basil plant has been quite prolific so that seems appropriate! The perpetual basil is sprouting again now it's spring and I've done some reading about possibly striking it from a cutting. Of course, I have no need other than curiousity, given the way my seasonal basil self-seeds in the garden. Apparently all basil plants are classified botanically as annuals, though my perpetual basil seems to be living up to its name so far. The best advice to strike a cutting from my perpetual basil plant is to take some tip cuttings with some hardwood attached, dip the end in honey (in lieu of hormone rooting powder or gel - has the same antifungal and antibacterial function to clean up the cut end). Nip out some of the budding leaf growth so the cutting can concentrate on establishing a root system and plant either direct into the ground or in a pot to get it started (use good potting soil). I'm also going to stick one cutting in a glass of water and see if it takes root that way. Although 'annual' basil varieties are very easy to grow from seed, the process of striking a cutting means you get a plant just like the original. I think one of the things I really love about gardening is the 'trial and error' and experimenting and learning the science of it all - in a very amateur way, of course. I wish science had been taught in school using gardening, as there's just so much to be learned in practical application.
Perpetual basil is not like 'sweet' basil (genovese) - much more pungent and aromatic and can be used in the usual array of food preparation but also for curries etc. I like it a lot.

September planting

What a great day for some gardening - lots of rain during the week, and clouds with patches of sunshine. Planted the last of the potato tubers, and did a whole lot of potting up in the newspaper pots of self-sown parsley in one of the beds. Put the little newspaper pots out by the driveway - the all went very quickly. Hope they have some good homes to go to and will inspire people to plant and give away their excess. I'm checking out gardenate for the things I can plant this month in my area. Keen to get going with spring and summer crops but in that 'in between' time with winter crops still going. So I'll begin the seed germination business with spring and summer crops in anticipation of getting the beds ready for planting. I ordered some dwarf fruit trees yesterday - hoping there's more space to plant them. I'll plant the dwarf cherry in a pot so I can move it easily in the garden when it's too hot. Bees are busy checking out the broad bean flowers. What a lovely time of the year!

verge gardening

I find myself looking with some longing at wide verges in our locale and disappointed that they're often left as wastelands. We had lawn on the front verge but as we had got rid of the lawns front and back we had no need of a mower and to use a mowing service cost $25 for a job that took less than 5 minutes. I even got down on my hands and knees to use hand shears at one stage. In the end we poisoned the lawn (with council permission) and planted drought tolerant native ground covers. They are well established now and had their first clip around the edges this week. We've planted a ring of bulbs around the street tree which are flowering now it's spring, and I've just planted a second ring again of poppies seedlings which will flower in November. They self-seed in following years and are very determined in whatever soil conditions they find themselves. Perfect for the verge. When the weather warms a little I'm planning to plant some fragrant basil and maybe some other herbs to give some height to the verge. Maybe encourage people to take some home for cooking! I just need to curb my enthusiasm enough to allow room for passenger access to the verge from parked vehicles. I found this website on verges inspiring.

Lebanese eggplant - seeds

I have really become a keen seed saver - and have become incredulous about how much seeds cost given the sheer volume of seeds in most plants. Even on e-bay people give a miserly half a dozen seeds for something like an eggplant - these Lebanese eggplants crop fantastically in summer and produce huge numbers of seeds for the next season. I've bought some of those little plastic seal bags that jewellers sometimes use, and insert info on a small piece of paper about the seeds and how to grow them. Then I give the seeds away to friends and neighbours.  I reckon everyone can grow SOMETHING, even in a plastic milk container with holes in on a dish on the window sill. I'll be preparing my spring 'giveaway' packs soon for neighbours and friends. Fiddly but fun in anticipation of what the seeds will turn into.

getting ready for spring - preparing for seedlings

I bought a little wooden 'doover' (pot maker) to make newspaper 'pots'. They're easy to make with just a glass and newspaper (see here for video instructions or here for a Gardening Australia factsheet). You can sow seeds into the pots ready for planting direct into the garden when the seeds have germinated and grown into seedlings. The video instructions uses more paper than I do - I just use the final 'strip' size cut from a newspaper (approx 9cm x 25 cm cut across a folded sheet of newspaper - I use the local paper!) and roll up, and press the bottom of the pot into the base. No need for glue. So simple and cheap! Using less paper means the base is not too thick when you put the newspaper pot into the garden and the roots can quickly establish in the garden bed. Sometimes I also put my 'cuttings' into such a pot (mint, rosemary etc) to let the cutting get established before planting (or giving to neighbours).
If you want to order a pot maker, Green Harvest stock them (Australia) - scroll down the web page. Not especially cheap but really effective. People who live overseas can just google to find one in their country. Enjoy - very therapeutic way to spend a sunny afternoon!

proteas - front garden

Geoff has been tending these gorgeous 'Braidwood Brilliant' proteas in the front garden. They are so spectacular! Our first go at planting proteas last year wasn't so successful with the intense heat over a long summer. We hope that these proteas are well established enough to survive this coming summer. Climate change makes gardening so much more challenging!
Geoff really enjoys growing flowers to cut - there have been lovely daffodils in the house over the last few weeks. Always a promise of spring to come.
More on protea cultivation on Gardening Australia website.